Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              S S      
                  T T T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings

August: Frost tender

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 Mar 17, Joan Fox (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Would tomato plant grow and produce fruit if planted in a pot on a sheltered veranda during winter months?. Would get all morning sun.
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17 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Tomatoes need heat to grow and produce. If you can where the soil in the container will stay warm enough you could certainly give it a try. You would need maximum sunshine and protection from frosts and cold winds. I have heard of people putting pots against a brick wall so that some of the heat absorbed by the wall can help overnight. If you have a sunny spot near a window inside what about planting them inside in a pot or a hanging basket. 'Tumbler' is a good hanging basket variety that bears very well and looks good. Let us know on this site how you get on.
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18 Mar 17, Robyn (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I agree that Tumbler is a great "cherry type" tomato, and a great performer. I grow both yellow and red variety. Plant two plants in each large hanging basket, feed well and you should get toms from Oct till April. I hang mine off the picnic table on my deck, we pick our own for meals, easy!
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05 Apr 17, Aloese (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have small tomato plants growing up now everywhere in my garden. Can they still produce fruits or it's the waste of time and get rid of them?
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07 Apr 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Unless your area is frost-free they are not likely to survive. We have them coming up in our garden because of a warm Autumn but the first frost will finish them.
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15 Feb 18, francie hancock (New Zealand - temperate climate)
what tomato do people recommend for cooler climate please
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21 Feb 18, Gaurav (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Hi Francie, I am not sure of the variety though I've seen something in Bunnings couple of months ago and that was specific to tomatoes. May be worth going/asking there? Not sure if this is of any help though. Good luck! Regards, Gaurav
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24 Feb 18, Wendy (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
We grow short season tomatoes successfully, like Early Girl.
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23 May 19, Brod (New Zealand - temperate climate)
How can i grow Tomatoes all year round in CHB Do i need a Greenhouse?????? In winter we get regular frosts
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23 May 19, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Tomatoes are frost tender, so yes you need some sort of protection for them, if you want to grow all the year round.
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Showing 11 - 20 of 39 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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