Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

03 Aug 20, Anonymous (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Maybe if it is totally air tight. You are really stacking the odds up against yourself. It is recommended to start planting seeds in Oct/Nov in cool/mountain NZ and you are trying to grow them in winter. More chance of a good crop when the conditions are with you than against you.
08 Dec 19, Julie (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
something is eating my tomatoes as soon as they get a bit if pink on them. Any advice or assistance. We have put up netting to stop the birds but still happening
12 Dec 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Check the plant day and night for grubs.
10 Dec 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Look under the leaves etc and see if you can find grubs etc.
17 Oct 19, lindsayshand (New Zealand - temperate climate)
what can i use to set my tomatoes to fruit
18 Oct 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
A few tips on growing tomatoes - make sure you have good rich prepared soil. Dig a hole 50cm deep and 60cm diameter. Put compost/manure into the soil or a hand full of fertiliser and mix it in. Plant the tomato in a bit of a hole and as it grows fill the hole in. Give tomatoes a good deep watering. Too much N and you will have a lot of leaves and little fruit. Too little fertiliser and you will have a small plant and a little crop. The secret is to know how much fert to put on and when. And start with a good strong seedling.
19 Sep 19, Wendy Perry (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Please what is a good all rounder tomato to grow in a Glass house in Alexandra, Central Otago? Thank you.
02 Nov 19, Michelle (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
I live in Omarama & do very well with Sweet 100 & Money Maker in my tunnel house, just be aware of late frosts & cover. Use plenty of tomato fertilizer & a good all round compost & potting mix.
25 Sep 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Go to a nz seed selling website and compare different tomato types. Then pick one or two and try them. Or go to Bunnings or a nursery and ask.
23 May 19, Brod (New Zealand - temperate climate)
How can i grow Tomatoes all year round in CHB Do i need a Greenhouse?????? In winter we get regular frosts
Showing 11 - 20 of 39 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put GardenGrow in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use GardenGrow and subscribe to the free GardenGrow planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About GardenGrow | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.