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Showing 9001 - 9030 of 20174 comments

Tomato 29 Mar, carolyn gladwin (Australia - temperate climate): I belong to a community garden locally, and we seem to disagree on how to raise tomatoes! The tomatoes have mostly not done at all well. They are in raised beds but are watered thoroughly every night. Some of us feel they've failed because of too much water. They are watered low down but drenched! Most of the tomatoes are not formed properly, or never formed at all, they are mishapen, and motley. in other words barely usable. The leaves have browned and shrivelled. They just haven't looked healthy. They haven't been mulched because of the slater problem but have mostly mushroom compost dug in. Can you resolve this issue for us please?
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Tomato 03 Apr, Mike (Australia - temperate climate): You are over watering by far too much. Depends on the soil and stage of the plants growth. Small plant do not need as much water as older plants. Say 4 plants - small plants would only need a few seconds a day and older plants 30-60 seconds. The soil should be moist not wet wet. Soil wet for a long time goes sour. A good idea is to break the top of the soil after a good down pour of rain etc. Soil needs aeration. If you mulch the soil then water each 2nd or 3rd day.
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Tomato 30 Mar, Ken (Australia - temperate climate): We often have issues like this in life. Tactful diplomacy is required. Tomatoes need 'consistent' water. this means that if they are continuously wet, rather than damp, they will not do well. l If they are 'wet then dry' they will suffer from Blossom End Rot due to irregular nutrient uptake and if they are too dry they will be slow to develop and often flower while quite small so that the plant can finish its life cycle before it dies. Brown and shrivelled leaves along with blotchy fruit suggests they plants are affected by soil born viruses. Soggy, wet soil will exacerbate this. Moist good draining soil is ideal for optimum growth and yield. Crop rotation and planting virus resistant varieties is also a MUST to control or reduce the effect of soil borne diseases. Slaters are normally only 'decomposers' and would generally only attack plants that are very stressed. Mushroom compost is already 'spent' and while can build up the soil it also increases the salinity. Trust this helps.
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Tomato 29 Mar, Dorothy Spinks (Australia - temperate climate): I have grown tomatoes this year and there is no problem. Have you tried growing cherry tomatoes, they seem to the hardiest variety. My friend who lives near Gloucester NSW cannot grow tomatoes where she is. I hope this is of some help.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 29 Mar, Dianne James (Australia - cool/mountain climate): I live near goulburn nsw and was wondering if i could grow rockmelon if so when thank you
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 15 Oct, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Probably after the last chance of frosts. Start seeds 3-4 weeks before the last frost.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 30 Mar, John (Australia - temperate climate): Rock melons like it hot so should do well in Goulburn. Start the plants early in Toilet paper cylinders ready for planting after the last frost. Plant the cylinder and all as the cylinder will rot. Seeds are generally readily available or look online at companies like - Green Harvest, Eden Seeds, Diggers, New Gippsland Seeds, etc. There are a number of shorter season varieties listed if you are worried. All the best.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 10 Apr, Lizzy (Australia - cool/mountain climate): I am growing the diggers rockmelon world variety in Queanbeyan on a northern bank The ones that came out were honeydew. They are small but very tasty. D'agen rockmelon also grow. Get them going early in a glasshouse or inside.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 07 Oct, Monique (Australia - cool/mountain climate): Hi Lizzy, do you mind me asking where your melons came from? I'm in Queanbeyan myself and have just moved to a place with garden space so my daughter would love to grow some yummy things, but it's too late to start melon from seeds and I can't find rockmelon seedlings!
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 15 Oct, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): My wife had a rock melon 2 weeks ago and I just threw the seeds and core under a small mango tree I'm growing and they germinated straight away. Although rockies are planted early in September here (seedlings) I'm going to give it a go. I might plant some corn near them, to give them some shade.
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Potato 28 Mar, Nomzamo Ntshisela (South Africa - Semi-arid climate): I live in the Eastern Cape (former Transkei), can I plant and grow potatoes in winter? I have heard there are potatoes that are winter resistant. Can you advise on that?
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Potato 30 Mar, John (Australia - temperate climate): You didn't mention whether you lived in the coastal region of Eastern Cape or over the ranges but I don't know of any variety that will handle any more than a light frost without damage. I have had potatoes come up throughout the year and the only ones that survived were under the eaves or a verandah. If frosts aren't a problem there is no reason why you can't plant them any time.
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Carrot 28 Mar, Kate (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate): I sow carrots every year but since living near the sea most of my biggest carrots split. I can make soup of the split carrots as they are tender but that is all. I do not put them in manured areas although I generally have grown a green crop in the winter and have it well dug in before I sow. Should I save an area from the green crop?
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Carrot 30 Mar, Jack (Australia - temperate climate): Splitting carrots in fruit and vegetables is generally an indicator of too much water suddenly. The skin of the fruit or vegetable that is affected can't handle the increase in water intake and will split. I have seen tomatoes, carrots, apricots, capsicums and oranges affected. In your location extra rainfall can't be controlled so ensure that drainage is good. Fresh manure causes forked and twisted roots as the decomposers working on the manure can damage the growing root tip causing it to fork. A leaf crop followed by a fruit crop (beans, tomatoes, etc) then a root crop is a good rule of thumb to follow.
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Yacon (also Sunroot) 27 Mar, Jeanne Prinsloo (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate): Where can I buy yacon to plant? Jeanne
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Yacon (also Sunroot) 30 Mar, John (Australia - temperate climate): I would try - www.organicseeds.co.za They do not list it but may know who would have it. All the best in your search. Maybe a South African gardener will read these pages and help.
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Artichokes (Globe) 27 Mar, Erica Nielson (Australia - temperate climate): Since globe artichokes don't like the cold, should I wait until after winter to divide the suckers? I use living mulch and hay to protect them from the cold I'm in Esperance, which has a fairly mild climate, but every summer we get the odd day 47degrees that simply knocks all the leaves off, probably because it's near a shed wall. Is there anything else I can do to protect it from the random heat waves? I suppose I could shift it so it doesn't get radiant heat. I appreciate any input. Thank you Erica
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Artichokes (Globe) 30 Mar, Jack (Australia - temperate climate): You could divide and replant the suckers in winter. Give them a good 'blanket' of straw or old sacking to protect them if you get frosts. If the shed wall is metal try hanging hessian sacks behind your plants. Alternatively use brush panels. The radiated heat off a metal wall cladding is intense even on a medium day.
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Silverbeet (also Swiss Chard or Mangold) 26 Mar, may (Australia - temperate climate): my silverbeet has been thriving but now new leaves are coming up small and very dark leaves (NOT SPOTTED)
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Dill 26 Mar, hugh avey (Australia - sub-tropical climate): my dill plants, from seeds or transplanted seedlings, grow well briefly, then wilt and die - suggestions please
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Dill 27 Mar, Jo (Australia - temperate climate): It sounds a bit like too much water when you mention that the plants grow well for a while then wilt and die. Dill likes good soil and manure but does not like to be wet. Wilting and then dying is often an indicator of too much water. This may not be the reason but I would try planting it in a raised mound and see if that helps.
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Dill 17 Jun, Kane (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Jo, can Dill be grown in pots? Also, with any plants, Dill included, how do I water an entire vege patch/garden at once if some plants like water and othets don't like do much water? Thanks
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Dill 17 Jun, Celeste (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate): I sent a reply; and then thought about the complexity.... and as usual, I went over board. So here is my best advice for a complete beginner gardeners. If you have the space, a good garden to start with is a Mediterranean Herb garden (I say if you have the space because if you plant one of these in a small space, you might not have room to plant anything else - and perhaps other plants or vegetables would serve you better). Ok, so what is a Mediterranean herb garden. It is a garden comprised of herbs that don't need much water, can tolerate poorer soils and like sun and heat . When picking a location for this herb garden think about a few things: 1. it should be in the sun ( at least 6 hrs of sun per day) and 2. It does not have to be close to the water source. Generally you locate plants that require lots of water close to your tap, or within easy reach of your hose; because you will be watering them frequently. On the other hand, plants that don't require frequent watering can be located in "less prime" watering locations; since you don't have to water them frequently. Convenience is key here; put plants that like water in a spot that is easy to water, and plants that require less water further away in those difficult to get to zones. The Mediterranean herb garden is a great garden to start with; since it is pretty tough to kill these herbs; they are very useable in cooking, or even eaten raw; and some are great ingredients in salad dressings. There is lots of return for little effort here; as herbs are high in vitamins. Most herbs can be started easily from seeds; cuttings or even the smallest of garden center plant purchases (in other words; I would not bother buying the 1 liter plant when the basket stuff size will do. It should be noted that some people like to locate their dry herbs close to the kitchen, so they are more likely to snip a bit of this and a bit of that when they are cooking; it all depends on how you want to use your garden real estate; and what needs to be convenient for you. There are also herbs that are considered "wet" ;herbs, because they like to be moist; Basil, mint etc. Locate these herbs somewhere where it is easy to water them, and somewhere where you can easily keep an eye on them (and water them if they wilt) -- they might also like a break from the hot afternoon sun; so if the garden closest to your kitchen is shady in the hot afternoon (but still gets morning sun) - this is a good spot for them; making them easy to monitor, easy to water, and easy to snip a bit here and there when preparing a meal. What I gather from your question is you need to take a little more time thinking about how you will "group" your plants into garden beds; or zones within a bed. Again, my suggestion for complete beginners is the dry herb garden; it's the INTRO to gardening; and you know you are going when you start to use your herbs.....most people have an easy time getting the garden up and going, but have to force themselves to incorporate the herbs in their cooking in the beginning; it can be tough.
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Dill 17 Jun, Celeste (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate): A late reply.... but none the less- here goes. You have planted incorrectly. That is, you should not interplant plants that like little water (dry) with heavy water consumers. This is part of the idea of companion planting - where you plant plants with similar needs, or plants that benefit each other in the same area. For example: carrots and tomatoes work well together; they have similar water requirements and they like the same type of soil. Further carrots are tap rooted and tomatoes have roots like fibers; this means you can plant them closer together and they should not bother each other. On the other hand a rosemary should not be planted near a tomato since rosemary is a "dry herb" and does not want to be as wet as the tomato. Your dry herbs are : rosemary. oregano. tarragon. thyme, marjoram and lavender (plus artesima/wormwood etc). Watering requirement approximate this for most vegetables: about 1.5 inches of water per week... maybe more, maybe less; it depends on a lot of factors. Look up by vegetable how much water is needed--- then use this calculation to figure out how to put that much water on: The calculations below are a good starting point; but watering needs change based on the weather (lots of dry heat means lots of water lost to evaporation, overcast and damp means very little water will "dry off") -- so you do need to adjust; but the calculations below might give you some idea of where to start. Let's say you have a garden bed that is 4' x 6' And lets say you want to put in two inches of water. So how much water is that ? First let's calculate the area of your bed in inches squared area = 4' x 6' area in inches = 48" x 72" area in inches = 3456 square inches So we want to cover 3456 square inches of garden with 2 inches of water So what we really need is the VOLUME (cubic inches) of water we need to cover this area Volume of water needed = 3456 sq inches of garden x 2" of water Volume of water needed = 6912 cubic inches of water ---> but what is a cubic inch of water in a measurement I understand ? Using a google app to convert cubic inches of water to gallons we input the number of cubic inches and it tells us what that is in gallons. So you need to add 30 gallons of water to have watered your 4' x 6' plot with 2 inches of water Reply

Dill 26 Mar, Grace (Australia - temperate climate)

Although dill is a hardy plant, it can be difficult to transplant young seedlings. Since dill does not transplant as well as other plants, plant dill seeds wherever you plan to grow them for the season.

Strawberry Plants 26 Mar, Kylie (Australia - temperate climate)

I've just received a shopping bag full of runners from a friend. It is now Autumn in Ballarat Victoria, how should I plant these now? Thanks

Strawberry Plants 27 Mar, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)

Autumn is a good time to plant strawberry runners. Clean up any dead material from around each plant, cutting off any dead leaves or broken roots at the same time. plant them in rows or large tubs to which you have added old cow manure or compost if you can. Many people used to put down plastic and plant them in slits in the plastic. This was to reduce weeds, conserve water and keep the fruit clean. The downside, very hot soil in the summer which kills soil life and difficulty in watering. Ideally use a natural mulch such as pine needles, sugar cane mulch or straw. you can also use autumn leaves. Spread the leaves over the lawn and run the mower over them. This will give you a blend of grass and chopped up leaves which will be free and make a good mulch.

Salsify (also Vegetable oyster) 26 Mar, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)

I just purchased salsify seeds produced by Bairnsdale seed company, Goodman Seeds. I picked them up in the local IGA supermarket!

Salsify (also Vegetable oyster) 27 Mar, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)

Goodman's is a good seed supplier to deal with. Their seeds are available from many outlets in Victoria and they are an independent, family owned company that has been going for about 125 years. If you are in other areas they do sell online.

Broccoli 26 Mar, Diane (Australia - temperate climate)

I planted my broccoli in January it's getting big enough but it's seems to be taking awhile to fruit it gets full sun and the leaves are good maybe I planted too soon

Showing 9001 - 9030 of 20174 comments

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